I had my engine (3.0) out to replace the rear main seal and oil pan gasket and also threw in a new slave cylinder since the bearing felt a little rough, but after getting it all together and bled my clutch won't disengage. It has pedal, way more than its supposed to, and there is pressure in the slave cylinder when I undo the bleed screw so its not the line thats bad. Is there a trick I missed putting it together or did I just get a junk slave?
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Usually if you put a slave in you should replace the clutch, slave, and master cylinder there all parts that should be replaced at the same time. Sometimes one will crap out on the other
I put a new clutch in too, and will be putting a new master in this afternoon since the plastic pushrod broke on me. I found out that I put the clutch plate in backwards, I remember reading which way it should face but for some reason I still did it wrong, I guess thats what you get for staying up till 5 A.M. trying to get it done haha
Wow this truck is about to get scrapped, flipped the disc around and still is doing the same thing. Any ideas?
To clarify I put in a new clutch disc but had the pressure plate and flywheel resurfaced by a machine shop, it looked fine with no broken or warped springs so I didn't get a new one. The clutch worked great with a light pedal before even though it was burnt down to the rivets. There isn't a lock pin in the slave I missed or anything is there? The slave was an off the shelf one at the local carquest, don't remember the brand but it seemed identical to the stock one.
Pulled the trans again after verifying that my slave cylinder was at the end of its stroke. Turned out I needed to reset the self adjusting mechanism on the pressure plate.
I have a 95 Mazda B4000 with a 4.0l. I put a new clutch and slave cylinder in about 2 years ago. A few months ago I was driving the truck and everything was normal I get to work and an hour later I go to move my truck and the clutch pedal won't move an inch. I actually bent the clutch pedal trying to push it in. I'm thinking the master cylinder went bad since everything else is fairly new. Am I correct in thinking it's the master cylinder. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
These hydraulic system is one of the hardest to get air out of the system. I would try open the fluid resivior and get yourself a screw driver handle and start tapping the line going down to the slave cylinder. At the same time have someone go inside the truck and gently press on the pedal. Although, time will also help. Gravity bleed, where you can just fill the resivior and let it drip down ward (making sure you do not run out of fluid). The key, keeps trying and don't give up. The air will come out.
Your master cylinder is not attach to the slave. Thats why you can't move the pedal, fluid have to move somewhere.
